‘It’s in our blood’: the ties that bind in Birdsville

Stephanie Gardiner |

The Birdsville Races, held on the edge of the Simpson desert, began in 1882 as a meet for stockmen.
The Birdsville Races, held on the edge of the Simpson desert, began in 1882 as a meet for stockmen.

Race horses come from every corner of Australia, a cavalcade of caravans converge in the desert and a tiny outback town suddenly bursts at the seams.

But none of those major logistical challenges appear to faze Birdsville Race Club vice president Gary Brook.

When trying to describe the enormous task of running the Birdsville Races 1500km west of Brisbane, Mr Brook instead remembers the time he was hanging up banners and ran out of zip ties.

Organisers had to call someone travelling to the Queensland outpost from Port Pirie in South Australia – 970km away –  to make a detour at a hardware store.

“It’s something as simple as that, which many people would take for granted,” Mr Brook told AAP.

“You can’t duck down to Bunnings if something doesn’t make the truck – there is no truck for a fortnight.

“It’s just the unique part of the logistics of an outback event.”

The races, a bucket list item for thousands of intrepid Australians, kick off on Friday for their 142nd year.

Spectators at the Birdsville races in 2022
Thousands of people make the trip outback to get into the spirit of the Birdsville races. (James Ross/AAP PHOTOS)

The event on the edge of the Simpson Desert began in 1882 as a small meet for 150 stockmen and horse owners.

A racing section in the Brisbane Courier newspaper described that first year as promising, saying “we shall probably hear of many more successful gatherings”. 

These days the 13-race carnival attracts thousands of punters and has a total prize purse of more than $300,000.

Twelve runners who will compete in Saturday’s $50,000 Birdsville Cup, dubbed the Melbourne Cup of the Outback, have each travelled more than 1000km.

A convoy of visitors, known as the Birdsville Roadies, have travelled from as far as Bunbury in Western Australia, Kangaroo Island in South Australia and Bendigo in Victoria.

The journey is part of the adventure, Mr Brook said.

“When you’re here, you’re on an even keel with everyone,” he said.

“You’re not choosing between a five-star hotel or a caravan park, if you’re coming to Birdsville Races you are camping.

“So it’s a great leveller.” 

The crowds will take in traditional and disparate events track side, like Fashions on the Field and Fred Brophy’s travelling boxing troupe.

Robbie Dare, who runs the Simpson Desert Oasis roadhouse in Bedourie, said the race is a boon after two wet seasons cut off local roads.

The roadhouse doubles its business during race weekend.

“Now is when we try and make hay while the sun shines,” Mr Dare said.

As president of the Bedourie Race Club and a former jockey, Mr Dare loves the revelry of the Birdsville meet.

His parents used to cater the races in the 1960s, carrying food on dry ice in the back of a Bedford truck from Quilpie.

“There was only a little crowd in Birdsville in those days, maybe 200 people and 20 horses.

“It was a massive undertaking from them, with cooked chooks and whatever else.

“So it’s in our blood.”

The journalist travelled to Birdsville as a guest of the Birdsville Races

AAP