Spiced Beef Martabak 

The Nutmeg Trail by Eleanor Ford

Makes 14

These crunchy pastry envelopes stuffed with a juicy meat filling are one of Indonesia’s most popular street food snacks. Their origins are thought to be halfway around the earth in the Indian communities of Yemen, from where they spread with traders across the Muslim world, adapting significantly to the flavours of each port. The name is universal, a lingering linguistic clue to the shared origin, whether you are snacking in Bangkok, Brunei or Kuwait.

Watching kaki lima vendors make savoury martabak is pure performance art as they deftly stretch dough until translucently thin, then fold it around the filling. I have an easy cheat for those of us less adroit, using wonton wrappers, which crisp and bubble beautifully in the hot oil.

Neutral oil, for shallow frying
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1cm (½ inch) ginger, peeled and minced (1 teaspoon)
½ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground chilli
250g (9oz) minced beef
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 large eggs, beaten
3 spring onions (scallions), finely sliced
Handful celery leaves or parsley leaves, chopped
28 wonton wrappers (approx. 280g/10oz)

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Cook the shallot, garlic and ginger to soften. Stir through the spices so you are hit by their fragrance. Add the beef and salt, breaking up the mince and stir-frying until brown and cooked through. Cool, or chill if making in advance.

When you are ready to cook the martabak, stir the eggs, spring onions and herbs into the filling. Lay a few wonton wrappers on a flat surface. Spread a spoonful of filling on each square and lay another square on top. It should lie flat with the filling almost to the edge. Press the edges so they are more or less sealed. Repeat to use up all the ingredients.

In a large frying pan, heat enough oil for shallow frying over a medium heat until shimmering. Fry the martabak in batches for about 1 minute on each side. They should be blistered and golden. Drain on kitchen paper and serve at once.

Eat with

A good chilli sambal or dipping sauce is essential. You could try the Ginger chilli sambal (page 63).

‘Images and text from The Nutmeg Trail by Eleanor Ford, photography by Ola O. Smit. Murdoch Books RRP $49.99.’